![]() |
I contacted the French agency Grand Nord Grand Large for this trip. I discovered later that they sold retail trips Topas... |
![]() | Topas is a
Dane agency which organizes treks in different places, with a broad
part in Greenland. This agency is opened to different countries, the
guide is Danish English-speaking, and we often find several nationality
in the group. |
![]() |
Site in English intended to promote tourism in the Greenland, as well as GNGL. |
| Greenland Guide Greenland Travel | Some site in English on the Greenland. |
| Ilulissat
Travel | Agency in Ilulissat giving a heap of service either to the customer, or to the other agencies in the berry of Disko. |
| Upernavik,
72°N | Jakobshavn,
69°N | Kangerlussuaq,
67°N | Nuuk,
64°N | Frederikshaab,
62°N | Narsaq,
60°N |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
| Date | Histoire |
| 2400 av
JC
- 1800 av JC | Civilization Independence 1. - They lived in tent, and their tools are only sharpened, they knows the needle. - One meetings principally on the north coast. - We assume their redemption of in a cooling of climate. |
| 700 av
JC
-
200 av JC | Civilization Independence 2. - They lived in tent, their tools are sharpened and polished, their needles are flat. - One meetings principally on the north coast. - We assume their redemption of in climatic modifications. |
| 700 av
JC
-
200 après JC | Civilization Dorset 1. - Appearance in the big half south of Greenland. - Perhaps they lived under tent or under igloo. |
| 800
à
1300
après JC. | Civilization Dorset 2. - Appearance in the region of Thulé / Qaanaq. - They lived in of small home, with accés by a long hall half sub-ground. - They used stone lamps. |
| 1050
à 1450 (nord) 1050 à 1850 (sud) | Civilization of Thulé (Qaanaq). - They are the forerunners of actual civilization Inuit, and they colonized approximately all coasts. - They leaved Alaska to attain the north of the Greenland. - They are clever hunters (arches, arrows), they use the traineau and kayak. - The winter they lived in home in peats, in stone, and the summer they used tents. - They light up with sharpened lamps in stealites, using some animal fat. - They evacuated the north of Greenland around 1400, probably because of the cooling of climate. - They have "disappears" by fitting to oriental civilization. |
| 982
à 1410 | Arrival of the Vikings. - Erik the red escapes Iceland having makes a murder, and with man's about twenty they search a nice place in Groneland. - They become established in Qassiarsuk (not very far from Narsarsuaq) in the south. - After some years, they come back in Iceland to blow deserve of Greenland, and he call it " green land ". - It goes back in Greenland with 25 drakkars and 1000 persons, and becomes established in the south top (around Narsarsuaq) and on the west coast (around Nuuk). - They construct churches, smithy, of farms and bring some cows and pigs. - They also play the peach and hunt, and population increase up to 4000 - 5000 inhabitants. - This auspicious period stops when climate gets colder in the 14°S, as well as with the arrival of an epidemic of black plague in 1348-1349, then by the migration of Inuits southward and which compete with them. - Establishment around Nuuk would have disappears from 1342, and after 1410 for the south top. |
| 1585
à 1615 | Research of a passage towards China by the north. - August 18th, 1576: The English boat Gabriel " brushes the coast of Greenland. - 1578: the king of Denmark sends Hennigsen. It will make U-turn before having attained Greenland. - 1585: English J.Davis take back up the Berry of Disko until Nuuk and in 3 successive trips. - 1605: The king of Denmark dispatch a new expedition. The contact with the Eskimoes is violent. - 1606: new Danish expedition. They bring 5 Eskimoes and their kayak in the Danish courtyard. - 1615: English Baffin follows the west coast of Greenland and takes back up until 78 ° parallel, in the berry of whalers. - 1619: The Danish captain Munch gets ahead until 63 ° parallel, and after a hard rainy season he go back to Copenhagen where he finds the king of mediocre mood. |
| 18°S | Colonization: - 1721: the Norwegian pastor grunt Egede found the Company of Bergen, and attains Greenland the July 3rd to evangelize Inuits. He remains 15 years here, and writes his work here " Description and Natural history of Greenland ". It will increase the interest for Greenland. - 1776: Denmark found the " Royal Company of Greenland " which is in charge of the transport and trades with Greenland. |
| 19°S | Conquest of Pole. - August 9th, 1818: English John Ross arrives at the Cape York (to the south of Thulé / Qaanaq), then goes back down along Baffin island. - 1822: Scoresby on board of Baffin, explores lands around Baffin bay (northwest of Greenland). - 1853-55: AMERICAN E.K.KANE mapping the lands of Inglefield and Washington. - 1870: the American Foyer advances in the channel Robertson (to the south of Thulé / Qaanaq), and dies here slaughtered. - 1878: Grunts Hendrik (accompanist of Kane, Foyer, the Hague) publishes its memories in London (partly cut down). - 1884: Gustav Holm meets esquimos of Greenland. - 1886-1909: the American admiral Peary organizes 8 expeditions between Thulé / Qaanaq and the North Pole, sometimes by way of the inlandsis, and tells have attained pole. - 1888: Nansen crosses the inlandsis. |
| 20°S | Several expeditions is organized in North Poles or in Greenland. - 1904-33: Danish Rasmussen throws 7 expeditions in the Arctic to the Bering Strait, and created the trading post of Thulé (Qaanaq) in 1910. - 1906: Erichsen attracts a rainy season in Greenland, where he died. - 1909: Cook told have attained pole. (It would seem that either Cook or Peary does not attains the North Pole) - 1910: Mikkelsen crosses the inlandsis. - 1913: Koch-Wegener crosses the inlandsis. - 1920-35: Jean baptist Charcot performs 7 trips in the Greenland, especially on the east coast. - 1930-31: German Alfred Wegener lays scientific foundations named Eismitte (70°53' N, 40°42' W, 3000m). Temperatures during expedition went of - 65°C in - 3°C. - 1930-31: Augustine Courtauld lays scientific foundations for 1 year towards Tasiilaq / Ammassalik in 2500m of altitude, or he crosses the only winter. - 1931: Hoygaar-Mehren crosses the inlandsis. - 1936: Paul-Emile Victor, Robert Gessain, Michel Perez, Eigil Knuth cross the inlandsis. - 1950: French polar Expedition with Paul-Emile Victor and Jean Malaurie. |
![]() |
An interesting view of the inlandsis which I found on Internet. |
![]() | An interesting picture of the common sailors around the Greenland. |

| Open | I take off at 9 h 15 from Copenhagen for Kangerlussuaq. Kangerlussuaq is a small village constructed around an ancient American military airport, which was recovered by Greenland to use it as international airport. When the plane goes up to Greenland, we pass above the ice pack of the east coast of Greenland. | Open | Some
instants afterwards we are above the mountains of the east coast of
Greenland. We see an Alpine landscape, with funds of valley pervaded by
long glaciers fed by the inlandsis. |
| Open | On Monday,
July 25th at 12 h 30, I arrive at Ilulissat. Then I discover the
impressive quantity of iceberg in the sea and in the close fiord. | Open | I begin with a small walk in Ilulissat in the afternoon. Here, it is the harbour of peach. Numerous fisher leave fish along icebergs, because there is more oxygen (imprisoned in the ice which melts), therefore more of fish. |
| Open |
On Tuesday, July
26th, I find the group. The afternoon we become established in the
camping of Ilulissat. I discover that GNGL sold a Topas trip, that
it is a Danish agency which can sell treks worldwide via Internet.
There is 5 Danish, 2 Norwegian, 2 Italians, and me only French.
Therefore we are going to speak in English during 15 days! | Open |
The meal of
midday and evening will be made based on bread, fish, cheese. In the
evening our guide takes us to walk around between 21 h and 23 h towards
Isfjord. First we meet these small white flowers typical of marshes of
regions Nordic. |
|
Open |
The camping is located in 500m about of Isflord, that here is on this photograph. | Open |
Here is a zoom on one of the icebergs which we meet regularly on Isfjord. |
| Open |
It is the mouth
of Isfjord. A compact ice pack circulates permanently in the
fiord, and which is pushed by the glacier coming from the inlandsis. Certain party of the fiord orientated to the open sea can be cleared of ice, as it is case on this photograph. | Open |
On Wednesday,
July 27th we take the helicopter towards the island of Disko, which is
called Qerqertarsuaq, the same name as the main city where we will
going to land. The city of Qerqertarsuaq is also called Godhavn in Danish. In the bay of Disko, we meet whole heap of iceberg, as this one. |
| Open |
We live this
evening in a home done up to accept about fifteen of people.
We leave for a walk in city. Along the way, we discover this beach
with a failed iceberg double. | Open |
A flower which we often meet in the Greenland. |
|
Open |
Other one, yellow, which we often see. | Open |
On Thursday, July 28th, we leave towards the glacier Lyngmarksbroen, located above Godhavn. |
|
Open |
The way takes us from the sea level to 800m of altitude. Slopes are green until about 500m or 600m of altitude. |
Open |
Then arrived towards 700m or 800m, we do not remain more than rocks. Snow appears here, but we can see it down elsewhere. |
| Open |
Then we have the right in the afternoon to go around in dog sleigh. Then I try to make some interesting photographs. |
Open |
Dogs in real job! |
| Open |
We make a pause the midway, that allows to make some photographs of the landscape. | Open |
Here, the dogs having a rest... |
| Open |
Then we come back and I reattempt some photographs since the sleigh. |
Open |
On Friday, July 29th is only reserved for descent. |
| Open |
We put our stuff close to campground, then we leave an instant in the city of Godhavn (Qeqertarsuaq) . | Open |
On Saturday, July
30th, we have rain all the day. Of blow we stay on place, we just
content themselves by walking around towards a coast not far. |
| Open |
We
discover very nice rocks, soil very green. In some places, he goes
out some lukewarm water at 8°C (we are in an ancient volcanic
region), what allows the vegetation to be light green. | Open |
The coast remains
interesting, in spite of poor weather. Godhavn / Qeqertarsuaq recovers
some icebergs coming from Isfjord, and causes a small local
concentration. |
| Open |
We also discover beaches, caverns... |
Open |
On Sunday, July
31st, we shorten a difficulty by moving us by boat at following stage.
In fact it is necessary to cross a torrent with shallows or there can
be quite a lot of water (until thigh) and with rather well of speed.
The guide preferred left fallen. |
| Open |
We camp towards the region named Laksebugt. We have some free time in the afternoon. We leave for walking towards a small valley located in south of the camping, and orientated towards the glacier Lyngmarksbroen, where we was a few days before. | Open |
With the guide we
go up on the tray Luciefjeld. By going up, we have an interesting view
on the valley which we have just borrowed. |
| Open |
We walk down on
other side of Luciefjeld (side of Itivneq kitdleq). We cross
fields of moss where we often find this ...a thickness of 20 in
30cm of moss (herself crossed by other plants) put on a soil of
earth or stone, with more or less water. We meet this everywhere in plane regions of Greenland. Perhaps it is a demonstration of the permafrost? |
Open |
On Monday, August
01st, it is a question of crossing the valley Itivneq kitdleq. It is
there where things go bad. We are under mosquitoes attack, they take us
down by wave of 50, they settle everywhere, for instance in eyes! So we have to put a mosquito net on the head, and even our guide Christian (been used to these regions) succumbs to the charm of the mosquito net. |
| Open |
From time to time
we must cross rivers with shallows. Water is rather cold, between
0°c and 5°c, the best is to go quickly without stopping. Often
we have the right, on the other side, to a pretty one carpet of moss,
nice to the foot. |
Open |
A landscape in the valley Itivneq kitdleq. |
| Open |
Here is what we often find: a carpet of moss of 20...30 cm put down on a soil of earth and water. | Open |
Then we are one other side of the peninsula which we crossed. On slopes, it is always drier, easier for walking. |
| Open |
A view on Disko fiord. The weather is covered, it is a bit a pity. |
Open |
We tarverse Disko
Fjord thanks to Johannes (a fisher of Godhavn), and we are arrived at
Kangerluk. It is a small village and more typical than Ilulissat. We
sleep at the inhabitant's by group of 2 persons. The following day, Tuesday, August 02nd, we remain all day long in Kangerluk, and we sleep therefore a second night. We use this day to discover the village and these surroundings, in spite of a covered weather. Here it is a fish drier. |
| Open |
Here, it is the graveyard of Kangerluk. There is a similar one in Ilulissat. | Open |
Then the evening
after meal, a surprise wait for us. The villagers organize a party in
the evening, because we are their last group of tourist. To the right,
it somebody is specialized in the musical animation. We also have a
hi-fi chain, and they alternate between CD and an instrument, as here
with the accordion. |
|
Open |
Here is a specialist, who is the specialist for encouraging people to dance. | Open |
On Wednesday,
August 03rd, the party is finish, and we leave again by boat towards
Fangsthus. We are set ashore some km before, to walk a bit by
foot. We arrive then enough early at a red shelter which we see on this
photograph. |
| Open |
The afternoon, I leave go for a walk, and I brings back some photographs of flower or plants. | Open |
A typical plant in the Greenland. |
| Open |
A typical plant in the Greenland. This one resembles a succulent. It is one of the rare breeds that supports frost, and grows anywhere on the planet. |
Open |
A typical plant in the Greenland. |
| Open |
On Thursday,
August 04th, we start the crossing of the valley of Itivneq
Kangigdleq. The nice weather is back till the end of the trek. Here, we
pass in front of a lake. | Open |
Another lake... |
| Open |
Again another... | Open |
Here it is our
attacker: the mosquito. He should try to sting across my trousers,
but he will not do it, because the mesh size of cloth is too much
gripped! |
|
Open |
A last view of Disko berry... | Open |
We are now arrived close to the middle of the valley. It is still here a typical soil inside the island of Disko when there is not marsh. |
|
Open |
Then we cross a
cataract, where we find a structure of rock already seen elsewhere in
Iceland. The rock becomes eroded by updating a repetitive motive! |
Open |
We are now in 400m of altitude, it is high for vegetation. We find portray of soil... |
| Open |
Or again some marshes! We will camp in the middle of the valley for two successive nights. | Open |
On Friday, August 05th, we have the free day therefore in the middle of the valley Itivneq Kangigdleq, and with mosquitoes. |
| Open |
There is a good means to avoid mosquitoes: altitude! With 4 people, we decide to undertake the ascent of a summit in 969m. Here I stop to make a photograph of this plant. |
Open |
We extemporize a
way to rise fast from 400m to 800m of altitude. At 800m, we fall on the
traditional plateau of altitude of the island of Disko. |
| Open |
Then we follow to climb up to the summit at 969m. A small easy glacier to cross, and we are here! An interesting photograph... | Open |
By walking back down, I take some photographs of flower of the Greenland. |
| Open |
Another plant.... | Open |
And once again the mosquito! Here, on the sock. I quickly photograph it, then I move it fast of the sock, because they can succeed in crossing the wool of socks. |
|
Open |
On Saturday, August 06th, we go down towards Godhavn / Qeqertarssuaq. We cross some small rivers... |
Open |
some plant... |
| Open |
some marshy zones... | Open |
And also this! A mixture of moss, water and grass. I find the green colours very green. |
| Open |
We meet another cataract... | Open |
that I photograph of another angle here. The way for a good instant in altitude at 300...400m, we will attain the seaside only in the evening. |
|
Open |
A region which I thought very nice... |
Open |
this river encircled with moss, with grass, with stone with mountains in bottom gives a very nice landscape. |
| Open |
I therefore do not resist to make several photograph of this place... | Open |
especially since
this green region of moss and grass is light green and bright,
and stretches over several hundred of metres. |
| Open |
Again some photographs... | Open |
And a small one behind. |
| Open |
By arriving close
to the shore, we find this river that we saw some days earlier. It
eroded the rock to give at certain places an interesting aspects. | Open |
On Sunday, August
7th, we have the free day till 16h in Qeqertarsuaq / Godhavn. Use it me
to make a jump on the south cape of the island of Disko, which is the
cape of Godhavn. With very clear time, mountains, rocks and icebergs give pretty one landscape. |
| Open |
Another photograph appraise from south cape. | Open |
At 18h, we take a boat to go back to Ilulissat. By sailing, we cross quite a lot of icebergs from Godhavn. |
| Open |
Another icebergs... | Open |
and still one, at arrival towards Ilulissat. |
| Open |
On Monday, August 08th, we have a free day in Ilulissat until 17h. Use it me to do again a turn towards Isfjord. |
Open |
Here are some photographs on the way... |
| Open |
Here are some photographs on the way... | Open |
then around an iceberg... |
| Open |
Arrived where I
wanted after 3 h of walk, I realize that I am not moved far a lot.
Isfjord is very long, and it would be necessary to envisage several
days of trek with the tent to move far enough towards the end of this
fiord. Then I come back, because I must go around in city before the shop closes! | Open |
In the evening, we go to the retaurant which offers a buffet with a good French wine. A bit expensive, but tasty! Then at 22 h, we embark on a boat to sail around the forehead of the ice pack of Isfjors. Here I found amusing to see birds using the ice as stop point. |
| Open |
And we are in the middle of the icebergs of Isfjord... |
Open |
I take several photograph... |
| Open |
during the sunset. | Open |
The boat stops one instant during the sunset. We have the chance to benefit of very pretty sunset in this evening! |
| Open |
On Tuesday, August 09th, we take off for Kangerlussuaq. It is the return, and the trek is finish. Here by air, a last view on Isfjord. |
Open |
Here, we see the edge of the inlandsis. |
| Open |
Arrived at Kangerlussuaq, we wait for 8 h. We use this time to go on the inlandsis in 4x4 car-truck. We discover the landscapes of Kangerlussuaq then. Weather is just a bit hotter, and there is more bush. | Open |
Another photograph between Kangerlussuaq and the inlandsis. |
| Open |
Then we are close to the inlandsis. A table and a barbecue is installed, but we will not have the time to use it. | Open |
Then we venture on foot on the inlandsis. As in Iceland, there is not almost crack, what allows to walk on the glacier without too much danger. |
|
Open |
A photograph appraise 100m farther towards the inlandsis. |
Open |
Then we take back theft for Copenhagen, and here is the last photograph of the inlandsis taken through clouds. |
big photograph of the Greenland - big photograph of Disko - big photograph of Illulissat - big photograph of iceberg - big photograph of inlandsis - big photograph of plane - history of the Greenland - big photograph of the harbour of ilulissat - big photograph of the flora of the Greenland - big photograph of the Arctic flora - big photograph of the Arctic - big photograph of sleigh ä dog - camping in the Greenland - big photograph of the Greenland - big photograph of the tundra of the Greenland - big photograph of the Arctic tundra - big photograph of river of the Greenland - big photograph of field of moss - big photograph of splendid landscape - big photograph of flower of the Greenland
| Moostik |
View My Stats |